Freedom to Speak
Our guide to the War Museum was a NVA veteran of the American War. He had been an artillery officer and also had spent 10 years in France, where he had "seen" the documents for the Geneva Peace Treaty, which was written in Vietnamese, French, English and Russian. This implied to me that he also had some sort of diplomatic role. He was interviewed and appeared on screen in Ken Burns documentary on the Vietnam War. He seemed quite open, but when we got back on the bus with our general guide, without him, we heard that there was perhaps more to his story. Because the veteran was a member of the communist party, our main guide did not feel comfortable criticizing the government, the war, or pretty much anything else in front of him. Previously one could be arrested for such speech, but now there is more freedom to speak, at least privately. There was another incident in a village in Khe Sanh province that made me aware that our guides are walking a fine line in herdi...